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COMMENT PRENDRE SOIN DE VOTRE NOUVEAU COUTEAU

Avant de commencer, veuillez noter que certains couteaux peuvent être lubrifiés dans l'emballage. Ne t'inquiète pas; c'est de l'huile de camélia non toxique qui agit comme protection et peut être doucement lavée avant la première utilisation.

Les bases

  • Garder les propres et secs

  • Ne coupez pas ce que vous ne pouvez pas croquer et mâcher

  • N'appliquez pas de force, ne sciez pas et ne sculptez pas

  • Pas de trempage ni de lave-vaisselle

Our knives are not designed to carve, pry, saw, or whack. Unless stated otherwise in the product's specifications, we discourage their use on foods such as bones, stalks, and solid items like Parmesan cheese, squash, and other dense ingredients to avoid injuries and permanent damage. If you cannot easily bite and chew it, do not cut it with your new high-end knife.

Les PRINCIPALES choses à faire et à ne pas faire

WASHING (Gentle and Dry)

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Compared to high-end clothes that you would never simply throw into a washing machine; we recommend you gently hand wash your knives with dish soap before putting them to work. Never let them soak for extended periods, put them into a dishwasher, or use abrasives like scrubby sponges and others.

Drying your knives with a microfiber or cotton cloth after cleaning them is required and will reduce oxidation and rust build-up.

If you own a carbon steel knife, be advised that it can easily react to acidic food. Therefore, it is important that you rinse your blades after cutting anything acidic (citrus, tomatoes, onions, etc.). If not rinsed, the acid will create corrosion and damage the steel.

The best practice is to always have a small towel ready to use beside your knife so that it can be wiped frequently during and after use; it will keep it clean and prevent oxidation.

MAINTAINING (Hydrated and Protected)

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Like a nice pair of shoes that you treat with protector before storing them after winter, you want to do the same with your knives. While this is not necessary for polished Stainless Steel knives, it is a good practice for carbon steel knives or even stainless steel ones that have a porous Kurouchi or Tsuchime finish; we recommend you lubricate them with food grade oil such as Camellia oil or even Olive oil. This will disperse and prevent moisture build-up that could in a long-term gradually affect the steel. 

If surface rust develops due to exposure to humidity or improper washing, it will appear orange and feel granular. This can be gently rubbed away with a fine steel wool (#0000), but it is crucial to prevent it through proper care. Polishing products are readily available and can effectively restore the shine of your blade when applied with gentle care.

Some handles are crafted from natural, and occasionally unlacquered, wood. These can be lacquered at home with food-safe oils before initial use and washing. Additionally, as depicted in our images, wooden handles should be routinely treated with beeswax or wood conditioner to hydrate, seal the surface, and shield it from water infiltrations. Adopting a prudent approach, akin to caring for wooden cutting boards, involves gently sanding your handle and applying periodic treatments to enhance its longevity and stave off any potential negative effects.

PATINA (Carbon Steel is Reactive)

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Similar to high-end vintage cutlery, vintage axes, or saws, if you have purchased a carbon steel knife, you will notice some discoloration on the blade, which is called patina. Do not rub it away, as it's a natural reaction of the steel due to the lack of chromium, vanadium, and molybdenum. Like an immune system, with regular use, it will grow on your blade to protect itself against rust and make the blade less prone to sticking when cutting certain foods.

When properly controlled, it can cover your entire blade, giving it a nice and unique look. This will range in color from blue-gray-brown to black, depending on the conditions under which it was formed.

The patina development is typically gradual and will form faster when cutting acidic foods such as onions, tomatoes, potatoes, and more. Some enthusiasts will even go to the extent of forcing a patina with acidic liquids, coffee, mustard, and more.

SHARPENING (No Steel Rods or Auto-Sharpeners)

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Many factors such as type of metal, cutting surface, frequency and technique of use will determine the frequency of sharpening required.

While chefs gently sharpen their knives at the end of every shift on a low-grit stone, we recommend for home users to hone with a Ceramic Honing Rod or strop with a Leather Strop their kitchen knives every few uses and sharpen them only every few months. If you want to learn more about the techniques, here are some valuable guides:

Generally, #3000 to #8000 grit stones Sharpening Stones are ideal for regular maintenances and #600 to #2000 grit stones for more in-depth blade sharpening every few months. To learn more about self-sharpening at home, consult our guide:
✔️ KNIFE SHARPENING 101 | WHETSTONE BASICS WITH ANIMATED FOOTAGE

While you can replace your regular maintenance stone with a ceramic honing rod that are highly popular and efficient, it is extremely important to never use a steel rod, diamond rod or a dry sharpener on a blade that exeeds and HRC of 57.

CUTTING BOARDS (Stay away from Bamboo)

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Selecting the right cutting board is crucial for maintaining the longevity of your knives. While many cutting boards promote beauty and durability in their advertisements, it's essential to exercise caution and prioritize the specific qualities that benefit your knives. Contrary to popular belief, the best cutting boards are not necessarily the hardest ones. Softness is a key attribute, as it helps preserve the sharpness of your knives. Avoid opting for cutting boards made from hard materials such as bamboo, resin, plastic, glass, stainless steel, or granite.

Dishwasher-safe boards, while convenient, may indicate excessive hardness, potentially detrimental to your knife's edge. If a cutting board can endure the rigors of heat and detergent cycles, it is likely too hard for your knives.

To extend the longivity of your knives sharpeness, we recommend choosing cutting boards crafted from wood (preferable end-grain), elastic, or even rubber. These materials offer the ideal balance of softness and durability. Keep in mind that, while these boards provide exceptional performance, they require handwashing to maintain their integrity.

Using a knife with a high HRC (Rockwell Hardness Scale) and a thin blade on a hard cutting board can lead to micro-chipping, necessitating knife repairs. To avoid such issues, it's crucial to use a cutting surface that complements your knife's characteristics, which you can find in our Cutting Boards collection.

STORING (Protect your Knife and Hands)

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Il est important de conserver vos couteaux dans un environnement sec où ils ne seront pas affectés par des changements extrêmes d’humidité et de température.

Après avoir nettoyé vos couteaux, rangez-les dans un étui ou une pochette pour éviter les blessures et l'exposition à l'humidité.

Un emplacement idéal devrait être loin à partir de l'H.V. du soleil pour éviter la décoloration des manches de vos couteaux.
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Questions fréquemment posées

Puis-je mettre mes couteaux au lave-vaisselle ?

Jamais! La plupart des couteaux ne survivront pas à la chaleur et à l'humidité générées par un cycle. Sauf indication contraire, lavez toujours vos couteaux à la main.

Puis-je utiliser un taille-crayon automatique ?

Sauf indication contraire dans la description du produit, exemple ; pour les couperets - il est important de ne jamais couper ce que vous ne pouvez pas mâcher. Les aliments surgelés, les légumes-racines et les fromages durs peuvent endommager votre lame et provoquer des éclats.

Que puis-je couper avec mon couteau ?

Sauf indication contraire dans la description du produit, exemple ; pour les couperets - il est important de ne jamais couper ce que vous ne pouvez pas mâcher. Les aliments surgelés, les légumes-racines et les fromages durs peuvent endommager votre lame et provoquer des éclats.

J'ai laissé tomber mon couteau et la pointe s'est cassée, est-ce une poubelle ?

Malheureusement, les pointes cassées sont assez courantes avec les couteaux fait d'acier dur. Ils sont dures pour conserver un tranchant pendant longtemps, mais cette dureté a un prix ; fragile. En fonction de l'impacte, les pointes cassées peuvent être réparées la plupart du temps.

Mon couteau en inox présente des taches de jonc, est-ce normal ?

Bien que certains blocs de chef ne soient pas optimaux en raison de leur conception, si vous avez un bloc, assurez-vous que vos couteaux s'ajustent et glissent correctement pour éviter de rayer ou de plier la lame.

Puis-je stocker mes couteaux dans un bloc de chef en bois ?

Il est toujours possible qu'il développe de la rouille s'il est exposé à une humidité extrême, laissé mouillé, mis au lave-vaisselle ou non entretenu. En anglais, le type d'acier le dit par lui-même - c'est StainLESS et non StainProof.

Puis-je ranger mes couteaux dans un bloc de chef en bois ?

Bien que certains blocs de chef ne soient pas optimaux en raison de leur conception, si vous avez un bloc, assurez-vous que vos couteaux s'ajustent et glissent correctement pour éviter de rayer ou de plier la lame.