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HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR NEW KNIFE

Before getting started, please note that certain knives might come lubricated in the package. Don't worry; it's non-toxic Camellia oil that acts as protection and can be gently washed away before the first use.

The Basics

1. Keep clean and dry
2. Don't cut what you cannot bite and chew
3. Don't apply force, saw, pry or carve
4. No soaking or dishwasher

Our knives are not designed to carve, pry, saw, or whack. Unless stated otherwise in the product's specifications, we discourage their use on foods such as bones, stalks, and solid items like Parmesan cheese, squash, and other dense or frozen ingredients to avoid injuries and permanent damage. If you cannot easily bite and chew it, do not cut it with your new high-end knife.

 THE KEY DO'S AND DON'TS

WASHING

Gentle and Dry

Gentle and Dry

Compared to high-end clothes that you would never simply throw into a washing machine; we recommend you gently hand wash your knives with dish soap before putting them to work. Never let them soak for extended periods or put them into a dishwasher.

Using scrubby sponges and other abrasives can dull the edge of your knife, scratch and even go up to fading or removing some of the knife blade finishes.

Drying your knives with a microfiber or cotton cloth after cleaning them is required and will reduce oxidation and rust build-up.If you own a carbon steel knife, be advised that it can easily react to acidic food. Therefore, it is important that you rinse your blades after cutting anything acidic (citrus, tomatoes, onions, etc.). If not rinsed, the acid will create corrosion and damage the steel.

The best practice is to always have a small towel ready to use beside your knife so that it can be wiped frequently during and after use; it will keep it clean and prevent oxidation.

MAINTAINING

Hydrated and Protected

Hydrated and Protected

Like a nice pair of shoes that you treat with protector before storing them after winter, you want to do the same with your knives. While this is not necessary for polished Stainless Steel knives, it is a good practice for carbon steel knives or even stainless steel ones that have a porous Kurouchi or Tsuchime finish; we recommend you lubricate them with food grade oil such as Camellia oil or even Olive oil. This will disperse and prevent moisture build-up that could in a long-term gradually affect the steel.

If surface rust develops due to exposure to humidity or improper washing, it will appear orange and feel granular. This can be gently rubbed away with a fine steel wool (#0000), but it is crucial to prevent it through proper care. Polishing products are readily available and can effectively restore the shine of your blade when applied with gentle care.

Some handles are crafted from natural, and occasionally unlacquered, wood. These can be lacquered at home with food-safe oils before initial use and washing. Additionally, as depicted in our images, wooden handles should be routinely treated with beeswax or wood conditioner to hydrate, seal the surface, and shield it from water infiltrations. Adopting a prudent approach, akin to caring for wooden cutting boards, involves gently sanding your handle and applying periodic treatments to enhance its longevity and stave off any potential negative effects.

Wax

PATINA

Carbon Steel is Reactive

Carbon Steel is Reactive

Similar to high-end vintage cutlery, vintage axes, or saws, if you have purchased a carbon steel knife, you will notice some discoloration on the blade, which is called patina. Do not rub it away, as it's a natural reaction of the steel due to the lack of chromium, vanadium, and molybdenum. Like an immune system, with regular use, it will grow on your blade to protect itself against rust and make the blade less prone to sticking when cutting certain foods.

When properly controlled, it can cover your entire blade, giving it a nice and unique look. This will range in color from blue-gray-brown to black, depending on the conditions under which it was formed.

The patina development is typically gradual and will form faster when cutting acidic foods such as onions, tomatoes, potatoes, and more. Some enthusiasts will even go to the extent of forcing a patina with acidic liquids, coffee, mustard, and more.

Oils

SHARPENING

No Steel Rods or Auto-Sharpeners

No Steel Rods or Auto-Sharpeners

Many factors such as type of metal, cutting surface, frequency and technique of use will determine the frequency of sharpening required.

While chefs gently sharpen their knives at the end of every shift on a low-grit stone, we recommend for home users to hone with a Ceramic Honing Rod or strop with a Leather Strop their kitchen knives every few uses and sharpen them only every few months. If you want to learn more about the techniques, here are some valuable guides:

✔️ KNIFE MAINTENANCE | HOW-TO | LEATHER STROPS AND COMPOUNDS

Generally, #3000 to #8000 grit stones Sharpening Stones are ideal for regular maintenances and #600 to #2000 grit stones for more in-depth blade sharpening every few months. To learn more about self-sharpening at home, consult our guide:

✔️KNIFE SHARPENING 101 | WHETSTONE BASICS WITH ANIMATED FOOTAGE

While you can replace your regular maintenance stone with a ceramic honing rod that are highly popular and efficient, it is extremely important to never use a steel rod, diamond rod or a dry sharpener on a blade that exeeds and HRC of 57.

Sharpening Tools

CUTTING BOARDS

Stay away from Bamboo

Stay away from Bamboo

Selecting the right cutting board is crucial for maintaining the longevity of your knives. While many cutting boards promote beauty and durability in their advertisements, it's essential to exercise caution and prioritize the specific qualities that benefit your knives. Contrary to popular belief, the best cutting boards are not necessarily the hardest ones. Softness is a key attribute, as it helps preserve the sharpness of your knives. Avoid opting for cutting boards made from hard materials such as bamboo, resin, plastic, glass, stainless steel, or granite.

Dishwasher-safe boards, while convenient, may indicate excessive hardness, potentially detrimental to your knife's edge. If a cutting board can endure the rigors of heat and detergent cycles, it is likely too hard for your knives.

To extend the longivity of your knives sharpeness, we recommend choosing cutting boards crafted from wood (preferable end-grain), elastic, or even rubber. These materials offer the ideal balance of softness and durability. Keep in mind that, while these boards provide exceptional performance, they require handwashing to maintain their integrity.

Using a knife with a high HRC (Rockwell Hardness Scale) and a thin blade on a hard cutting board can lead to micro-chipping, necessitating knife repairs. To avoid such issues, it's crucial to use a cutting surface that complements your knife's characteristics, which you can find in ourCutting Boardscollection.

Cutting Boards

STORING

Protect your Knife and Hands

Protect your Knife and Hands

It is important to keep your knives in a dry environment where they will not be affected by extreme moisture and temperature changes.

After cleaning your knives, store them in a sheath or pouch to avoid injuries and exposure to humidity.

An ideal location should be away from direct sunlight to prevent the discoloration of your knife handles.

Storage Options

QUESTIONS WE GET FREQUENTLY ASKED

Can I put my knives in the dishwasher?

Never! Most knives won't survive the heat and humidity generated by a cycle. Unless suggested otherwise, always wash your knives by hand.

Can I use an auto-sharpener?

Unless stated otherwise in the product description, example; for cleavers - it is important to never cut what you cannot chew on. Frozen foods or hard root vegetables can be hard on your blade and cause chipping.

What can I cut with my knife?

Unless stated otherwise in the product description, example; for cleavers - it is important to never cut what you cannot chew on. Frozen foods or hard root vegetables can be hard on your blade and cause chipping.

I dropped my knife and the tip broke, is it trash?

Unfortunately broken tips are quite common with knives made from hard steel, they are hard to keep an sharp edge for a long time however that hardness comes at a cost; brittle. Depending on the break, broken tips can be repaired most of the time.

My knife handle became loose, is it normal?

While many knife handles are secured using glue for longevity, some particularly the ones crafted in Japan, adhere to the traditional method of heat and pressure fitting the blades into the handle.

Over time, these handles can become loose due to wear, which is not uncommon and should not be considered a defect. For those, occasional handle re-fitting may be necessary. One simple solution is to tap the handle back into place. However, some individuals may choose to reinforce the handle by applying a drop of epoxy or hot glue to prevent future loosening.

Similarly, plastic ferrules, which are sometimes held in place with pressure or a small pin, may also experience loosening over time. In such cases, similar measures can be taken to secure them firmly in place.

My Stainless Steel knife is showing spots of rush, is it normal?

It's still possible for it to develop rust if it's expose to extreme humidity, left wet, put in the dishwasher or not cared up. The steel type says it by itself - it's Stain LESS and not Stain proof.

Can I store my knives in a wooden chef block?

While some chef blocks are not optiomal because of their design, if you have a block be sure you knives fit and slide in properly to avoid scratching or bending the blade.